Timber Yard Tales
Welcome to Timber Yard Tales — the heart and humour of WBS Henderson, your local timber yard where Little Steve shares weekly stories, handy tips, fun facts, and the occasional dodgy joke. Whether you're a weekend DIYer, a seasoned tradie, or just here for a chuckle, this is where timber meets talk — no hard hats required.
Each week, Little Steve dives into the world of building supplies, from demystifying what "H3.2" means (spoiler: it's treated timber perfect for outdoor use) to explaining the difference between fence palings and decking timber. It's real timber knowledge without the jargon, told like a yarn over the fence with your favourite uncle — helpful, honest, and just a bit cheeky.
After a read, if you’re feeling inspired to get building, check out our shop for timber, fencing, and DIY supplies at trade prices to the public.
So on with the yarns ...
Have dogs always been part of the timber trade?
Mans best friend and timber go way back — not in the blueprinting or building part, but definitely in the "man's best mate on the job" department.
In the early days of logging — back when axes were swung by hand and blokes wore flannel unironically — dogs were right there in the bush with their humans.
In Canada and parts of the US, loggers kept tough-as-nails breeds like Huskies and Malamutes to help haul gear or pull sleds loaded with timber. In the colder months, those dogs were worth their weight in gold (and dog biscuits).
Over in Scandinavia, timbermen often used dogs to sniff out game and watch camp while they were off felling trees. They were bush alarms, rat catchers, morale boosters, and foot warmers all in one.
Even here in New Zealand, old bush camps often had a scruffy mutt or two kicking around — not officially employed, but always on site. They’d guard tools, chase possums, and sit by the fire like the true supervisors they were.
These days, they might not be dragging logs down the hill, but you’ll still find dogs keeping watch in utes, snoozing under workbenches, or supervising fence builds from a shady patch of dirt.
Why does my fence wobble like it’s had a big night out?
Seen a fence doing the drunken lean? Bit of a sway every time the wind picks up?
That’s usually down to one thing: the posts weren’t put in deep (or solid) enough.
In New Zealand, the general rule is this — bury your fence posts at least one-third of their height above ground. So for a standard 1.8-metre fence, you’re looking at a hole depth of at least 600mm.
But if the ground’s soft or you’re going taller, you’ll want to go deeper. A 2.4-metre post? Bury that sucker 800mm or more. No skimping.
And don’t just chuck in a bit of gravel and hope for the best. Set those posts in proper concrete. Make sure they’re plumb, spaced right, and braced while curing. That’s the difference between a fence that lasts a decade… and one that waves at the neighbours after the first nor’wester. Build it strong, build it straight — and thank yourself later when it’s still standing proud while your mate’s “quick job” is doing the hula.
P.S. Before you fire up the auger, always double-check your boundary lines. Saves a neighbourly standoff (and a rebuild).
02/06/2025
What is Stronger - Glue or Screws?
Ah, the age-old question. It’s like asking what’s better: a pie or a beer. The real answer? Both, if you know what you’re doing.
Glue — the good stuff, not the dried-up tube in the bottom of your toolbox — can actually create a stronger bond than screws when used right. Especially for furniture and joinery. It seeps into the grain, sets solid, and doesn’t let go.
But here’s the thing — glue takes time to cure.
So if you need instant hold or you're dealing with weight-bearing bits (think framing, decking, or anything a mate might sit on), screws and nails are your go-to. They give the grip while the glue works its magic.
The real trick? Use both. Glue for long-term strength, screws for the immediate grunt. That way, your project won’t wobble like a one-legged barstool.
Job done right, first time.
16/05/2025
What did people write on before paper came along?
Long before A4 reams and junk mail, humans were scribbling their thoughts on whatever they could get their hands on — bark, clay, animal bits... you name it.
In ancient Egypt, they had papyrus — sliced reed pressed into scrolls. Over in Central America, folks used amate bark. Others were carving into clay tablets like prehistoric accountants. Not exactly portable, but it did the trick.
The real game-changer came from China around AD 105, thanks to a bloke named Cai Lun. He mashed up old rags, hemp, and mulberry bark into a pulp, spread it out into sheets — and boom, paper was born.
Come the 1800s, they started pulping trees to keep up, and today wood makes up 95% of the world’s paper. From bark to books — not a bad yarn, eh?
19/05/2025
Don't Let Your Timber Throw a Tantrum!
Little Steve’s seen it too many times in our Kiwi winters — good timber left out in the rain, only to end up swollen, twisted, and no good for building. When timber gets wet, it absorbs moisture fast, leading to warping, swelling, and even splitting once it starts to dry out again. It's the kind of problem that can turn a simple project into a real headache.
Stacking timber flat in a damp shed isn’t much better. Without proper airflow, moisture gets trapped around the boards, creating the perfect environment for mould and mildew. Over time, even the best timber can start to show black spots and lose its strength. It's important to keep your timber stored somewhere dry, off the ground, and where air can move freely around it.
12/05/2025
Can Wood Survive in Space?
Sounds wild, right? But it’s true — scientists are actually testing wooden satellites. The idea is to reduce space junk, because unlike metal, timber burns up cleanly when re-entering Earth’s atmosphere. It’s an eco-friendly twist on space tech, and it turns out wood might be one of the cleanest materials for the job.
Now, before you go strapping a piece of 4x2 to a rocket, this isn’t your average fencing timber. The wood used in space is specially selected and treated to handle extreme conditions like vacuum exposure, radiation, and extreme temperature shifts. Still, it's wood. From Earth. In space. Pretty cool.
What makes timber even more remarkable is that it doesn’t block radio signals, it’s lightweight, and it holds up surprisingly well. So even in the age of high-tech alloys and carbon composites, wood’s still got a seat at the table — or in this case, the satellite.
05/05/2025
Why is a 4x2 not actually 100x50mm?
It’s a common head-scratcher: you go to pick up a piece of dressed 4x2 timber (which should be 100x50mm), only to find it’s not quite those measurements.
So what’s going on?
Here’s the deal: timber starts off rough sawn, meaning it's cut to a nominal size (that’s the original size it’s intended to be—like 100x50mm). But that’s just the beginning.
Before it ends up in your hands, the timber goes through two key steps:
1/ Drying – The wood is dried to reduce moisture, which causes it to shrink slightly.
2/ Dressing – It’s then dressed (planed smooth) so it's easier to work with and looks nicer. This process shaves off a few millimetres from all sides.
By the time it's ready to sell, a 100x50mm piece of timber might actually measure closer to 90x45mm—but it’s still called a 4x2 out of habit and for consistency.
So, what does this mean for you?
Always measure your timber before starting your project. Don’t just rely on the label—grab a tape measure and double-check. Otherwise, you might find yourself making an unexpected trip back to the yard for round two!
01/04/2025
Rough-Sawn, Dressed & Kiln-Dried Timber?
If you’ve ever stood in the timber yard scratching your head over “rough-sawn,” “dressed,” or “kiln-dried,” you’re not alone. It’s one of the most common questions we get at WBS Henderson, and understanding the difference can save you time and money.
Rough-sawn timber is cut straight from the log and left with a coarse, unfinished surface. It’s ideal for framing or jobs where looks don’t matter, but it’s not cut to exact size — so be cautious when measuring.
Dressed timber
(planed smooth) is refined and ready for visible projects like shelving or furniture. Just note: it’s slightly smaller than rough-sawn because it’s been smoothed down.
Then there’s kiln-dried timber, which has been dried out in a controlled environment (called a kiln) to remove excess moisture. Why? Because wet timber shrinks as it dries, and that can mean warping and splitting. Kiln-dried timber is more stable, easier to work with, and less likely to change shape after you’ve built something.
So next time you're picking timber for a project — whether it's fencing, decking, or building a shed — have a think about what finish you need, and whether the wood will be exposed to the elements. And if you're not sure? Ask Little Steve, he’s always good for a yarn and a recommendation.
21/04/2025
How to keep your deck looking smart?
A good deck is an outdoor essential, but if you ignore it, you’ll be barefoot-dancing over splinters in no time. Regular cleaning, sealing, and checking for loose nails will keep it looking fresh.
If you've got kwila, give it a wash to reduce tannin bleed, and avoid using harsh chemicals that strip protective oils. Treat your deck well, and it’ll be your backyard’s best feature for years to come.
Avoid using a high-pressure setting when cleaning. Opt for the lowest setting on your pressure washer or water blaster to protect the timber from splitting or damage.
14/04/2025
Did George Washington Have Wooden Teeth?
Despite the old legend, George Washington never had wooden teeth—his dentures were a mix of ivory, human teeth (yes, really), and metal.
But the myth has stuck around, probably because old dentures often got stained and cracked, making them look a bit like wood.
While we wouldn’t recommend using timber for your teeth, we’ve got plenty for your next building project!
07/04/2025